Scotia Sea

This is the 3rd day at sea and the much announced ‘bad weather’ has not yet materialized. While it is not smooth neither is it really rough to the point of ceasing activity (perhaps we are just turning into old sea-salts!).

Having said that – activity is limited to lectures, reading, excursions around the outside decks, celebrations (Australia Day), eating/drinking – in honesty we are all more than keen to disembark!! As Elephant Island approaches we are at the mercy of the weather to determine either an on-board ship cruise or much hoped-for zodiac cruise. If this fog persists we will be lucky to see it at all!

Elephant Island

The ship cruised as near to Wild Point as possible but the winds still very high. Fog swirled around the huge and mighty glaciers that seem to be rising up out of the boiling seas and dividing up the sharp mountains. An magical and eerie scene but so en-heartening to see land again!

As we left again for open water the rough we had been warned of began! Force
10 again so batten down the hatches – this is Antarctica!

South Georgia at Last......................
Two days at sea after leaving the Falklands with many sightings of albatross, skuas, petrels, dolphins, fur seals and even whales (as informed by the professionals) but its a big ocean out there and we always seem to be looking the other way!

Early this morning all this changed as we had a rude awakening as to the real conditions down here as everything not nailed down flew around the cabin - we were really rockin & rollin!! Dawn up at 3.00 am so was the wind as it whistled in the porthole. It felt like we were standing on our heads in our beds as the ship lurched about! Still breakfast as usual! Lynn the expedition leader tells us that the captain has a cunning plan (not Baldric I hope!) to battle the 50 knot winds (gale force 10) giving Elsabir Island a wide berth and tacking back along the lee side of South Georgia to Salisbury Plain in the north. all so British! another historical conquest! Just how Shackleton rowed this in an open lifeboat is impossible to imagine. We feel like intrepid explorers although fed and watered safe inside! Advised the wind should drop enough to allow for zodiac landings although the mind boggles! Only outside space not out of bounds and battened down is on the bridge wings where Alan is out taking the air........... Oops better investigate as I thought I saw someone go past the window!! It´s OK - Just seen our first major ice berg!

Salisbury Plain
Not as we know it!! The local King community - spot the odd one out!
Wonderful regal birds and so friendly!

Prion Island

A great privilege to land here due to the very short opening period from 20January and strictly limited numbers. In small groups of 12 we were escorted up the board walks between the numerous fur seals & pups. Up to the top of the cliffs to view the prize – wandering albatross! Apparently the only other place is in New Zealand where these giant birds can be viewed so closely.




Fortuna Bay
Huge wide expanse of wilderness with small colony of king penguins (only50,000 pairs!), scary and aggressive fur seals everywhere with their pup sand surprisingly small herds of reindeer!Excellent 3 hours exploring the terrain - shale, peat bog, grass, pebbles,rocks, mountains and streams while trying to fend off seal and snowy teal(little birds) attacks!




Stromness
Ugh! A bleak desolate bay dominated by the derelict whaling station (now out of bounds as in dangerous condition). The rusting remains of a bloody industry like a graveyard that nature is gradually reclaiming. Its difficult not to imagine the blood-filled bay, butchered carcasses,industrial drone and the overpowering smell of boiling blubber – couldn't wait to get away!Cruising past the buildings glowing orange in the sun we spotted seals sitting in open doorways, on the jetties and discarded propellers and penguins wandering and preening themselves in the sun!






Grytviken
The whaling remains at this capital town have been developed into a museum amidst the still existing research community. The human side of this past industry became more apparent. The sheer hell on earth of the poor 100 or so men (and a few women – wife and daughters of the manager) who lived in this godforsaken environment and harsh climate. The stunning beauty of snow capped mountains, glaciers and wildlife glistening in the evening sun belie the reality!
It is Ernest Shakleton's final resting place.




Gold Harbour
Wonderful! Snowy ranges towering outside our porthole – glowing pink in the dawn light – it’s 3.00am! Busy day planned Rough waves so exhilarating zodiac ride and very wet landing onto a packed penguin beach. The inevitable stroppy seals waiting to pounce from their tussock lairs and amazingly just masses of huge blubbery elephant seals!!(we may look like these after all this ship food!) The sounds emanating are overwhelming – growls, grunts, purrs, snores, farts and occasionally scratching with their huge flipper-like hands and long nails! And the smell something else!! Miles of shit – sorry guano! But can you believe it – its magical! Overhanging glazier, moody fog, mist,low cloud, mizzle – we just sit in awe at the animal activity!

Drygalski Fjord

This afternoon the wind is too rough for our planned zodiac cruise so our last expedition in South Georgia is confined to an magical ship cruise into this fjord. Simply stunning! The sea changing hues of blue to turquoise with steep snowy crags rising from out and closing around us as we sailed into an ice sea and in front massive glaciers of blue white. This is our last experience of South Georgia and a taste of things to come as move further away from civilization and life and prepare for rough cold weather on our journey south. The message is stow everything tonight for the 2 days sail across the Scotia Sea!


The last of British territory.....................